San Francisco Frontiers - Harris Reed opens with 'rebellious' show at London Fashion Week opening

The British-American designer and creative director at Nina Ricci showcased designs from his eponymous label, which he describes as "Romanticism Gone Nonbinary", to launch the LFW Autumn-Winter 2025 calendar.

The Tate Britain's high-ceilinged galleries originally built to display sculptures were filled with Reed's imposing structural designs, strutted by models in sky-high heels.

"I think it was important to have a bit of rebellion in the collection this season," the LGBTQ Reed told AFP after the show.

"And I kind of went back to the roots of where I think London fashion is, and it's gritty, and it's very theatrical in its darkest, finest senses."

The show opened with a monologue by British actor Florence Pugh -- who last opened a show for Reed two years ago -- styled in a sheer black dress, her face framed by horn-like panels rising out of its bodice.

Models in black and gold dresses accentuated by caged crinolines, drapery, fishtails, and swooping cut-outs were sent out to ominous music in the dimly-lit gallery.

However, Reed's customary drama of fabric and lavish accessories gave way to more muted designs with occasional embellished details inspired by sea urchin.

"The world is in a tough spot right now," said Reed, adding that he used that as "fuel" to create pieces that are "almost kind of bodies of armour".

- Absences -

From Friday morning, regulars of the event organised by the British Fashion Council (BFC) will take over the runways, including Erdem, Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn and Roksanda, before closing with the Burberry show on Monday evening.

The brand with its iconic tartan print, which is going through a difficult period, is the subject of rumours about the departure of its creative director Daniel Lee, who arrived a little over two years ago and has struggled to modernise the house.

Lee could be replaced by English designer Kim Jones, who left Dior Men at the end of January after seven years, according to several media reports.

One confirmed absence from London's runways will be JW Anderson, the label by Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who is also the creative director at the Spanish fashion house Loewe.

The timing is likely not a coincidence, with the designer, named the 2024 Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards, reportedly poised to take the reins at Dior.

- 'Challenging time' -

For the first time, this year young designers who are part of the BFC's NEWGEN programme will have to describe how their collections comply with minimum sustainability standards.

The BFC, which funds this incubator for emerging talent, is following in the footsteps of the smaller, eco-conscious Copenhagen Fashion Week, which has adopted the policy since 2023.

The BFC also announced in November it was banning the use of wild animal skins, such as alligator or snake, in a largely symbolic move.

This edition of LFW is also marked by the absence of young designers like Molly Goddard.

Independent designers Dilara Findikoglu and Conner Ives, on the programme, have limited themselves to one show a year, while others like 16Arlington and Tolu Coker have opted for a dinner or presentation instead of a pricier runway.

BFC director Caroline Rush acknowledged it was "a particularly challenging time" for British brands, which have been dealt several blows following the pandemic, such as Brexit and last year's closure of the global luxury online platform Matches Fashion.

Rush, who is organising her last London Fashion Week, said London Fashion Week remains "so relevant because ... we have so many small independent businesses, they need a platform to be able to show to reach global audiences".

She will be replaced by Laura Weir, creative director of British department store Selfridges and a former journalist with British Vogue.

M.Hill--SFF