San Francisco Frontiers - Pharrell kicks off Paris Fashion week with Louvre show

Transforming the French capital's most famous museum continues the hip hop artist and singer's habit of using landmarks as backdrops for his clothes since he began as Vuitton's creative director in 2023.

For his debut show, the LVMH-owned brand turned the Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in the capital, into a giant runway, even painting its paving stones gold.

A historic theme park, the Jardin d'Acclimatation, hosted Pharrell's show last January while in June he sent models down a lawn catwalk built on the rooftop of the modernist headquarters of UN agency UNESCO.

He shared a first glimpse on Instagram of his Autumn-Winter 2025-2026 collection, co-designed with his friend and fellow designer Nigo, which features bomber jackets and trainers in bright primary colours.

The Louvre's iconic architecture has been used several times in the past by Vuitton's Nicolas Ghesquiere, artistic director of women's collections, most recently in October.

Pharrell's fifth collection for the brand is expected to once again draw a star-studded crowd from the worlds of rap, cinema, and sports.

Brand ambassadors include American basketball player LeBron James, French basketball sensation Victor Wembanyama, and Olympic swimming star Leon Marchand.

South Korean star J-Hope of K-pop group BTS, currently in Paris, shared his invitation on social media: a metallic card bearing his name in a leather pouch.

After delivering an ode to multiculturalism during his last show in June, Pharrell Williams might be tempted to send a political message a day after the inauguration of Donald Trump as US president, some observers believe.

- 'Workwear' -

The opening day of Men's Fashion Week, which runs until Sunday, also featured an afternoon show by Japanese brand Auralee, making its third Paris appearance.

Founded in 2015 by Ryota Iwai, the label stands out for its simple, functional design.

In terms of looks, experts say the aesthetic dominance of streetwear is fading, with designers increasingly focused on "casual tailoring", emphasising suits and structured pieces with a relaxed twist.

A major trend from the spring-summer 2025 collections was dubbed "workwear", featuring trench coats, Barbour-style jackets, duffle coats and loafers.

"There’s a classic, slightly dandy but chic, elegant, and casual silhouette emerging," Alice Feillard, men’s buying director at luxury Paris emporium Galeries Lafayette, told AFP.

Brown colours have dominated for two seasons, and insiders expect them to remain a key shade at the end of the year.

A number of top labels are luring new designers or looking for fresh inspiration in the increasingly tough luxury market.

Lanvin is set to return after a two-year hiatus, presenting Peter Copping’s debut collection as the artistic director of France’s oldest couture house.

After completing his first show in September, Valentino’s new artistic director, Alessandro Michele, will return for haute couture week, which follows immediately after the menswear week.

One of the most anticipated shows will be on Sunday by in-vogue French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus, whose Jacquemus brand is making its return to the official calendar after a five-year absence.

Notably absences include Givenchy, whose new chief designer Sarah Burton has reserved her first collection for the women’s Fashion Week in March, as well as Loewe, whose artistic director Jonathan Anderson is rumoured to be on the way out.

Hedi Slimane left his role as artistic director at Celine in October, John Galliano quit Maison Margiela in December, and Chanel unveiled their new creative director, Matthieu Blazy, only a month ago.

G.Allen--SFF